PCT Part 2: Beginnings

Day 1

Today’s miles: 10.6

Total miles: 10.6

Here comes the sun!

The Beatles tune was blaring on the camp speaker as dozens of hungry hikers devoured pancakes and waffles generously provided by the camp hosts.
For the first time since we left San Diego, rays of sunshine were piercing the clouds.
Our tent was dripping with rain and condensation. We did our best to wipe it dry with our tiny Swedish cloth.

Finally, with gear packed away and bellies full, we strapped on our packs and walked 0.3 miles up the hill to the southern terminus. It stood in the shadow of the huge Mexican border wall, in a small clearing.

After 20 minutes of photo taking and pondering the significance of the moment, we stuck our hands through gaps in the border wall (my arm is in Mexico!) and set off.

A sign reading “Asylum” in several languages was stuck at the intersection of a dirt road, next to a big plastic tub full of Walmart tents and a pallet of bottled water.

Brooding storm clouds threatened us for miles as we climbed into the border hills and desert scrub. Rain began to fall a couple of hours in. We fumbled with our rain jackets. “Is this the desert?” asked Jess as she contemplated a thicket of dripping green shrubs.

We called it quits after 10.6 miles, and set up our tent in the drizzle at a secluded spot just off the trail. We’ll need to average closer to 20 miles a day to get to Canada, but we’re not thinking about that now. Our only goal for the next few weeks is to acclimate our bodies to thru-hiking life and find a daily mileage that builds our strength without risking injury. Nearly a third of PCT hikers quit in the first three weeks due to overuse injuries, according to our camp hosts.

The drizzle intensified as I cooked a lentil dahl over our little stove. Everything got covered in mud, but we were too tired to do anything about it.

We hurriedly scoffed dinner standing in the rain, before retreating to the tent to down a protein shake and fall asleep.

Day 2

Today’s miles: 15.4

Total miles: 26

We woke surrounded by mud. Much of our gear was filthy, as was our tent. Despite the dirt Jess was in particularly good spirits, and keen to get going.

Before we left I trudged up the trail to find a secluded spot to dig a cathole, but the thick scrub made it tricky. Found a spot and used my new backcountry bidet for the first time. Overall not as unpleasant as I’d worried – I can see why people swear by them.

We set off for Hauser Creek, and began the long climb down the canyon. After refilling our water bottles, we began the even longer trudge out of it. We spent well over an hour churning up the switchbacks before we reached the top.

Then finally, Lake Morena – and our first trail magic! Volunteers from the Fowler O’Sullivan foundation (which looks for missing hikers) with free snacks and supplies. I grabbed a Gatorade and some homemade cookies. One of the trail angels was thrilled to meet Australians. “I was just there for a wedding! What’s with the men all dropping their pants and dancing to that song?”

We arrived at the Lake Morena malt shop for a late lunch. We both agreed we deserved a huge cheeseburger each after that big climb. Per our nutritionist’s advice, we also ordered an enormous salad. Amazingly, we finished it.

Then another five and a bit miles to Boulder Oaks campground, which promised picnic tables and a drop toilet. Luxury after the night before!

We felt very smug after walking across a highway bridge to avoid fording the river below, but soon had to cross it again anyway. Icy water knee deep in places.

We shuffled into Boulder Oaks at sunset. I wandered into the site set aside for PCT hikers and saw a bearded man grinning at me. It was Altitution! He and his wife Jamie were trail angels on my last attempt in 2019. After I ended up in the hospital in Palm Springs, they drove all the way out from the LA area to visit me. It meant the world to me to see friendly faces in that unfamiliar place.

As I was setting up our tent, an exclamation from the hikers gathered around the campfire. Look up! I turned around to see something streaking across the sky, leaving an enormous contrail unlike any plane I’d ever seen.

It was a Space X rocket. As I watched it arc away, I saw the booster flare as it separated and returned to earth. An unreal ending to a big day.

Day 3

Today’s miles: 11.8

Total miles: 37.8

We woke shivering at Boulder Oaks campsite – Jess was feeling the cold particularly badly. As luck would have it, Altitution was about to ditch his sleeping bag liner and put it in the hiker box. Jess grabbed it. The trail provides!

Our sleeping bag and tent were both soaked with condensation, but we dried both in the morning sun as we cooked porridge and packed up.

We set off, followed the trail under the I-8 freeway, and began the long climb to Mount Laguna. It was tougher than I remembered! We both marvelled at the sweeping views as we climbed high above the desert floor.

We shared several rest breaks with John and his young son, Tye. John told us he had founded a plastics company, sold it for a packet, and retired at 33. It was his and Tye’s second crack at the trail.

We also meet Tabea, a 32-year-old hiker from Germany who had camped the night before at Lake Morena and had got up early enough to catch us. Already we’re noticing the beginnings of a thru-hiker community. It’s what I’ve missed most since my last hike.

We spent the entire day climbing higher and higher, before finally conking out by a creek after 11.7 miles. We’d climbed 2,276 feet.

Butter chicken for dinner, Mount Laguna tomorrow!