Day -1
Woke up before dawn for our 6AM flight from San Francisco to San Diego. Our host and friend Enia woke up with us to give us a ride to the airport. She’s a longtime friend of Jess’s, a lawyer, and a proud Belarusian. I really enjoyed getting to know her better in our few days in SF. She’ll also be mailing out resupply packages. Trail angel!
Got the bus from the airport out to Scout and Frodo’s. These two legendary trail angels host hundreds of hikers every year in the backyard of their gorgeous home at the end of a cul-de-sac in University City. Jess and I got lucky and snagged the treehouse. We’re lucky people. Scout gave us the tour: he built it in 1997 with his then 12-year-old daughter, and loved every minute of it. “Every time I was working on it I was just really happy”. 12 other hikers stayed the night, and we got to know them all.
We met Tammy, a hiker from Wisconsin. In an enormous coincidence, she’s from the same small town (Oconomowoc) where my friends Bob and Karen live in the summer. Bob was my hospital roommate at the Eisenhower Medical Centre in Palm Springs when my heart went haywire on my 2019 hike. We expect to stay with them both when we make it to the highway near them.
Scout taught us all “an essential trail skill” – line dancing – before dinner. After dinner, he and Frodo gave us all one of their famous fireside chats. They spoke about the trail community, thru-hike etiquette, and trail safety. Two young women who stayed with them in 2019 drowned crossing rivers in the Sierra. Scout was emotional as he talked about them.
We fell asleep in the treehouse loft, under its plexiglass skylight.
Day 0:
Rain!
Pouring down from the moment we walked out of the treehouse. Freezing, driving, dragon breath.
Us thru-hikers hunkered in Scout and Frodo’s kitchen while we tucked into their frittata and oats. Delicious and hearty. Scout and I compared notes on the Bibbulmun Track and the PCT. We agreed trail runners are king, boots are for suckers.
The shuttle arrived around 10am. Scout signed a bookplate for our copy of his book, Journey’s North. We said our goodbyes with a hug.
Our driver, One Speed, took us to REI before Campo. My old inflatable pillow had burst a seam the night before. Our first trail gear casualty! Got a new one.
We talked a big game on the drive out to Campo. “We can be cold and wet at the campground or we can be cold and wet on the trail” Jess said. The rain intensified as we drove over the pass.
We got to CLEEF (Camp Lockett Event and Equestrian Facility) after about 2 hours. Only when the door opened did we realise what we were in for. Icy wind hit us. Despite my down jacket, I shivered uncontrollably as we had our picture taken in front of the van. Dozens of hikers were gathered under the campground shelter around propane heaters. As soon as we walked in it was clear we weren’t going anywhere.
“I believe in hiking smart, not hard” One Speed told us. “Start tomorrow.”
And so we settled in with others, watching the relentless rain. Jess and I had lunch from our packs, then set up our tent when the rain briefly slowed to a drizzle. After a solid nap, we rejoined the group for the camp hosts’ dinner chat.
One Piece spoke about the big three dangers: hypothermia, heatstroke, and river crossings. Her husband gave a hilarious primer on the art of persuading day hikers to give you a ride into town. We had our first trail dinner (Outdoor Gourmet Green Curry Chicken, v tasty) and chatted with Chef, another former PCT hiker with unfinished business.
In bed by 9 (hiker midnight) and excited to start tomorrow! More rain forecast, but less than today’s 22 mils.
Enjoy the rain.
Still dry as here in WA
Here is to a better day tomorrow. The first step is the hardest one sometimes but it’s got to be taken. Happy Trails Ben and Jess.
Perfect weather here in Perth, as per usual 🙂